Two Days of pure Mountain Happiness in Rätikon

We already know the summit of the Schesaplana from previous mountain tours in the Rätikon. For this year we have chosen a special tour: the ascent of the Schesaplana via the Leibersteig with an overnight stay at the highest Alpenverein hut in Vorarlberg, the Mannheimer Hütte.

This undertaking of two-day mountain tour starts for us on a Tuesday at the parking lot in Brand Innertal. In the weeks before, we have planned this hut hike in detail, reserved the sleeping places and watched the weather forecast. Once again a look in the backpack, whether everything is packed and then we can start off! And that in the best weather and pleasant temperatures.

We start quite comfortably with the ascent to the Zalim valley. Soon the path leads us over wide alpine meadows and a goods path up to the Oberzalim hut. The first altitude meters of this tour are already behind us - perfect for a little refreshment and a short break at the hut. We look up in the direction of Leibersteig and study the onward route towards Mannheimer Hütte. Through this steep rock wall should an alpine trail lead upwards? We are a bit excited and for a short time a slightly queasy feeling spreads.

Directly above the hut the Leibersteig branches off. We lace up our mountaineering boots once more and set off again. This alpine climb is not quite easy - surefootedness and a head for heights are required in any case - but with sufficient alpine experience it is easily doable. Difficult passages are provided with steps and secured with ropes - that reassures us. Each step brings us a little further up this rock face with numerous exposed places. Especially because of the exposed position we can enjoy fabulous views during the ascent. Only a short distance and we reach the high plateau above the Brandner Glacier. Our eyes turn to the Panüeler Kopf on the right and the Mannheimer Hütte on the left. The view of the Schesaplana and the remains of the once mighty Brandner Glacier is also overwhelming. In a few minutes we reach the rustic Mannheimer Hütte and treat ourselves to a first refreshing beer - with a sensational view, of course.

We meet many like-minded mountain hikers who appreciate a pleasant hut atmosphere and prefer to be a little off the busy mountain trails. After a fantastic dinner at the hut, we once again briefly take off our warm wool socks and put on our mountain boots to experience the sunset in the mountains. The location of the hut is perfect - there is hardly a more beautiful place to catch the last sun rays of the day. The mountains shine in a deep orange-red - unbelievable what colors nature conjures up in the sky.

Once again back in the guest room and then it's already hut rest. We move into our camp sleeping places, review the day once again and then fall asleep, well wrapped in our hut sleeping bag. Quite early - around 07:30 - we start into the new day. After an extensive and very tasty hut breakfast and a hot cup of tea we pack our things again and get ready for the glacier crossing and our summit ascent.

In the past, when the glacier was more powerful, the path led directly to the Schesaplana, the hut host told us last night. You can still see it on the pictures hanging in the guest room of the hut. Unfortunately, this is no longer possible due to the melting of the glacier. We therefore start downhill, over rocks and gravel, directly to the Brandner Glacier. This now has to be crossed. For better orientation, the route across the glacier was marked with a taut rope. The feeling to enter this glacier is unique - but it also makes us a bit wistful. We suspect that in a few years the glacier could have disappeared completely. Step by step we move carefully over the bluish ice of the glacier, before a bit of boulder scrambling takes us up to the ridge. An important info for interested mountaineers: during the summer months the glacier crossing is usually possible without any problems and without any aids. At the beginning and end of the summer season, it is advisable to ask the hut host what the current conditions are.

Our goal, the pyramid-shaped Schesaplana, is getting closer and closer. Via a steep gravel path, the trail leads us over the Schesaplanascharte up to the summit. Shortly below the mighty summit, it gets a bit busier, because here we meet numerous day hikers who have ascended from the Totalp hut. Once at the summit, we can hardly believe how this mountain panorama and the view captivates us over and over again. We look back once again to the Mannheimer Hütte and our day yesterday, enjoy the panoramic view and of course take a souvenir photo at the summit.

The descent also demands our full attention once again, because slipping is absolutely forbidden on this section of the path as well. Shortly before the Totalp hut we can already smell the scent of the famous curd cheese lasagna and therefore take another short break. After that, we set out on the last meters down to the Lünersee. As we have a few kilometers in our legs, we cover the last meters of altitude with the Lünerseebahn.

With an unbelievable feeling of happiness and somewhat tired legs we return to the starting point in the afternoon. It was a special experience and one of our absolute mountain highlights this summer. And we can already say this: certainly not our last hut tour in the Brandnertal.

Tour Data

Author: Melanie Fleisch